Last time I was in Melbourne, my hotel room looked out on a sea of churning metallic waves. Forty years ago they would have been called psychedelic.
The waves are the roof of Southern Cross Station. It’s one of five stations on Melbourne’s City Loop, the hub of the city’s extensive electrified urban rail network. It’s also the Melbourne terminal for the remarkably extensive V-Line system, a network of intercity trains linking Melbourne to the smaller cities all over the surrounding State of Victoria. I usually arrive here on a bus from the airport, which comes into an adjacent bus terminal. Southern Cross thus serves as part of the arrival experience at all scales, from daily commutes to flights from overseas.
Designed by Grimshaw Architects, and completed in 2006, Southern Cross Station was created out of the old Spencer Street Station by replacing the building but not the tracks. Remarkably, the station kept functioning, more or less, throughout the construction.
The new station is all about the roof. The vast undulating structure has a pattern of transparent stripes running the same direction as the tracks, as though gesturing energetically toward your direction of travel. It can capture the energy of arrival, too, as the waves can easily suggest something in the early stages of crumpling on impact. It’s an effect that you might call muscular whimsy — a fundamentally lighthearted idea rendered with overwhelming force. Such contradictions are often the key to creating a building of lasting interest in this deconstructed age.
The roof floats above the huge space without enclosing it; the station is open to the adjacent streets so that it feels even more outdoors than a classic rail station would, and provides a feeling of continuity with the busy streets on two sides. Some station functions are in freestanding structures under the roof but not connected to it, such as this large orange box that houses two levels of station offices.
The integration with surrounding urban fabric is impressive. A major sports venue is a short walk away on a pedestrian bridge, which leads on into the highrise Docklands area. Trams (streetcars) stop on two sides. The major bus terminal is adjacent, with a large factory outlet shopping centre on top — the sort of discount shopping that Americans can only get to by car.
The most striking effect of the station, for me, is that it’s extremely hard to loiter in, and nobody does. V-Line trains wait at the platforms to depart, so passengers generally wait on the train rather than the platform. The platforms deliver the arriving passenger onto a huge featureless expanse of black floor, where the flowing roof seems to help hurry you along. Stopping to take photos in these spaces, I felt I was pushing back against the energy of the building.
Fortunately, the vast floor leads you out into thick urban fabric on all sides. The effect is opposite that of the grand cathedral-like space of a classic 19th century rail station, which seems to celebrate the rituals of travel such as greeting and parting. Southern Cross would not be a good place to jump up and down waving your handkerchief as your lover’s train rolls in or out; if you did that, the roof would seem to be laughing at you. But it’s a great place to move through quickly, a postmodern solo traveler with a small rolling suitcase, ready to greet Melbourne, or the world.
“Remarkably, the station kept functioning throughout the construction.”
Not quite. In fact there were widespread disruptions, with some trains periodically diverted away from the station, and many others running non-stop through it for weeks at a time.
There were also concerns about cost over-runs, wind flows through the platforms in cold weather, and the name change (which was arguably both pointless and confusing to passengers) but it must be emphasised that the old station it replaced was dank, ugly, and thoroughly unappealing.
Well, I for one fail to see the value in a train station that is not conducive to loitering.
Interesting, I look forward to taking a look for myself in my upcoming visit to Australia. I’m new to your blog, and just wanted to say I enjoy it quite much. Keep up the great posts!
– urban planner in the bay area.
And when you saw Southern Cross for the first time, you understood why you came that way?
I recently read that the roof is designed to naturaly extract the diesel fumes from the trains without the need for artifical ventilation. (The suburban rail network is electric, but the regional trains run on diesel).
This reminds me of Kyoto station in Japan.
It has an huge atrium but not a single bench… or trash can for that matter. It is a beautiful piece of architecture but a terrible place to spend any time in. It almost as if they don’t want you to stay. It seems to me that as train station should almost be a type of public space and should have amenities like benches to let people sit down and rest, for example.
i get interested of your blog knowing that it posts good views and shots. the waves of the southern cross station is nice.